Wine Reviews from Chuck Hill's Wines of the Week

Wines of
the Week

By Chuck Hill

Chuck's Wine Reviews
of Northwest Wines
Organized by varietal

...in the Prosser area
...in the Spokane area

Archived Wines of the Week
Published August 27, 2007

Everybody Loves Chardonnay
By Chuck Hill

       As a varietal wine, Chardonnay has had more ups and downs than the recent Dow Jones average. In the early- and mid-1980s it was all the rage with huge buttery-vanilla (often oaky) monsters coming from California and many Northwest wineries imitating this successful model. These were not food wines
. . . unless the food was Hostess Twinkies.

       As brave winemakers (many from the Northwest) realized that Chardonnay was the grape of the great white Burgundies, they strived for more complexity, character and depth. It took 15 years to unravel the mystery of clonal variation - Burgundian Chardonnay is crafted from slightly different "Dijon" clones, better suited to growing in cooler climates. Oregonians began adapting their vineyards to these clones, replacing UC Davis clones that had been isolated for growing Chardonnay in California's warm climate.

       So today, we have many Oregon vineyards growing Dijon clone Chardonnay (often mixed with blocks of Davis 108 and other clones). In Washington and Idaho, the Chardonnay planted is mostly warm weather clones that are relatively trouble free and produce good sized crops in almost every vintage. Unfortunately, success of Chardonnay is most often measured in sales, not complexity and character, and styles vary tremendously.

       As Forrest Gump might say, "Chardonnay is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you are going to get." Today, I'll try to steer you to some wines of identifiable styles that are palate pleasers and good food wines.

L'Ecole No 41
2006 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
$21.00

Marty Clubb has developed a great style for his Chardonnay that pleases tasters as both a sipping wine and an excellent food wine. Barrel fermented for richness and complexity, the wine offers aromas of ripe apple, tropical fruits, and spice, that lead to a rich palate of Asian pear, tropical notes and a crisp mineral finish.

Woodward Canyon
2006 Chardonnay
Washington
$36.00

Produced from the California Wente clone Chardonnay, Woodward Canyon Chardonnay is a rich and voluptuous wine, enjoyable with or without food. The wine is barrel fermented (40% new oak) and presents aromas of ripe pear, vanilla, stone fruits and light barrel toast. The palate is superbly balanced with tropical flavors framed by creamy and toasty notes, finishing with hints of citrus and mineral.

Forgeron Cellars
2005 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
$25.00

Another rich and tasty Chardonnay crafted in Walla Walla. Also barrel fermented on 40% new oak, look for aromas of Fuji apple, pear and toasty crème brulée. The palate offers white peach, citrus and vanilla flavors finishing with creamy notes and hints of toasty oak. Very good with light meats from the grill.
www.forgeroncellars.com

Amalie Robert Estate
2005 Chardonnay Dijon Clones
Willamette Valley
$20.00

Amalie Robert is located near Dallas, Oregon with the vineyard development beginning in 1999. The Chardonnay is crafted from Estate fruit, Dijon clones 76 and 95, cool fermented in stainless steel tanks with no malolactic fermentation. Compared to the preceding wines, this is a lean wine with aromas of lemon grass, green apple and mineral. The palate is crisp with acidity and offers flavors of Comice pear and green apple with hints of herb and mineral. The winery suggests the wine to accompany crab cakes or their version of smoked black cod with mango salsa. www.amalierobert.com

Vin du Lac
2005 Chardonnay Barrel Select
Columbia Valley
$20.00

Vin du Lac winery and Chelan Wine Company sits on a hilltop rising 200 feet above Lake Chelan offering superb views of the lake and Chelan Butte. The tasting room and bistro open at 11am daily. Vin du Lac Barrel Select Chardonnay offers aromas of citrus, mineral and melon with light floral and vanilla notes. The palate brings apple and pear to the citrus theme and the finish features bright acidity to make this an extremely food-friendly wine.

Chateau Ste. Michelle
2005 Chardonnay
Indian Wells Vineyard, CV
$25.00

Winemaker Bob Bertheau crafts this rich wine from grapes grown at the Indian Wells Vineyard near the SE corner of the Wahluke Slope AVA. The wine is barrel fermented with 39% new oak and highlights the tropical fruit character of the vineyard site. Aromas of pineapple and pear dominate with hints of spicy oak. The palate is fresh with tropical flavors mingling with apple and melon notes. Ample acidity makes the wine a delicious accompaniment to the classic scallop dish, Coquilles Saint-Jacques.

Henry Estate
2005 Chardonnay
Umpqua Valley
$11.00

This smooth and easy-to-drink Chardonnay is partially barrel aged and offers classic Northwest Chardonnay character. The delicate nose offers ripe Bosc pear, baking spice and hints of vanilla and barrel toast. The palate shows citrus and apple flavors with hints of mineral in the finish.

Melrose Vineyards
2005 Chardonnay
Umpqua Valley
$15.00

Melrose Vineyards near Roseburg makes a complete line of varietals and offers tasting at the winery daily from 11am to 5 pm. The 2005 Chardonnay features aromas of pear, honey and melon leading to a rich palate with flavors of apple, butterscotch and light oak. Great with wild salmon from the grill! www.melrosevineyards.com

Barnard Griffin
2005 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
$14.00

Winemaker Rob Griffin and his crew really know hot to pack great wine into a bottle for a bargain price. This Chardonnay is 50% barrel fermented and offers rich aromas of tropical fruits, pear, vanilla and barrel spice. On the palate it is smooth and mouthfilling with flavors of pear, pineapple and toasty-buttery vanilla. Sip or serve with light meats from the grill. www.barnardgriffin.com

Covey Run
Quail Series 2005 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
$10.00

This is a great value in Northwest Chardonnay! Look for bright aromas of apple and pear, framed with subtle notes of mineral and toasty oak. The palate is juicy with pear and tropical flavors, finishing with light toasty oak and vanilla. A great sipping wine to lead off your next dinner party.

Ridge Crest
2006 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
$10.00

This new series of wines comes from Claar Cellars near the Tri-Cities. Ridge Crest Chardonnay is stainless steel fermented and offers aromas of ripe apple, pear and melon with hints of spice. The palate is clean and crisp with flavors of pear and light tropical fruits. Another affordable food wine to lead off your next dinner party!

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Last revised: 12/31/2007