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By Chuck Hill

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Wines of the Week
Published October 11, 2007

Northwest Merlot - Embrace the Power
1st in a Series By Chuck Hill
See part two

The growth and evolution of Merlot in the Northwest has been amazing to watch over the past 25 years. The darling Washington red wine of the 1980s, Merlot was on top of the wine world for its fresh fruit (now called "fruit forward"), varietally true flavors. This popularity led to more plantings, higher prices for fruit, and the questionable conclusion that more oak would improve the sales of the wine.

You now are served a healthy portion of new oak character with your Merlot. Since it is not possible to belly up to the wine bar and order your wine with the final admonition, "And hold the oak," let us embrace the power of New Merlot. Below are a baker's dozen of wines that are noteworthy for their quality. Oakiness is remarked upon in the reviews.

Ethos 2004 Merlot
Columbia Valley
(produced at Chateau Ste. Michelle)
$50.00

Despite the use of 93% new oak for 22 months of aging, this wine exhibits all the character of great vintages of Merlot. Ripe fruit aromas of black cherry and plum mingle with notes of cedar, tobacco and spicy herbs. The palate is balanced and long on delicious fruit and toasty oak flavors. Put some aside for special occasions.

Northstar
2003 Merlot
Columbia Valley
$41.00

Northstar is a Merlot and red-blend-only winery that was born of the aforementioned 1980s Merlot boom. Rich, ripe fruit stood firm against oak aging that included 18 months at 70% new barrels. Not as forward as the Ethos, the wine offers similar aromas and flavors but in slightly less characterful style. Very pleasing to our tasters and an excellent food match for hearty meats and sauces.

Leonetti Cellar
2005 Merlot
Columbia Valley
$65.00

If you have a connection that can get you some Leonetti wines, you might want to lay down a bottle or two of their 2005 Merlot. Chris and Gary Figgins tout this Merlot as "maybe our finest to date" and obviously laud the vintage and resulting fruit for the success of the wine. Interestingly, the wine shows more Bordeaux-like Merlot character than that of Washington. Floral notes, earth and smoky hints of tar layer above and below a bedrock of black cherry and cassis. Note that this wine is younger than the two above and also that oak aging was only 14 months. A few years' age will reward the patient.

L'Ecole ^No41
2005 Merlot
Seven Hills Vineyard
Walla Walla Valley
$37.00

Merlot was the red wine of choice when L'Ecole No 41 was founded in 1983 by Jean and Baker Ferguson. Daughter and son-in-law, Megan and Marty, thus have a soft spot in their hearts for making superb Merlot. Sourced from the highly acclaimed Seven Hills Vineyard, the wine offers ripe black cherry, plum, leather and smoky tobacco notes on the nose with matching flavors, medium body and a fine, silky finish. Judicious use of oak (18 months at 60% new) allows the fruit to shine. A relative bargain in the company of titans.

Dunham Cellars
2005 Merlot
Lewis Vineyard
Columbia Valley
$75.00

When Eric Dunham started working with Lewis Vineyard, he certainly couldn't have believed how important the site would become to Dunham Cellars. I barrel tasted with Eric through some of the first Lewis Vineyard Syrah and his excitement was palpable. Other varietals followed as the vineyard has matured and this Merlot is a blockbuster. It is graced with a label featuring one of Eric's paintings which makes it even better. Look for complex aromas of minty black cherry, berry, anise, cedar and floral notes. The palate is bursting with fruit and needs a few years to marry completely.

Abacela Winery
2005 Merlot
Southern Oregon
$19.50

This tasty wine weighs in at one full degree less alcohol than those above and was aged in only 18% new oak. Sourced from vineyards in the Umpqua, Applegate and Rogue River Valleys, the resulting complexity is refreshing and leads one to sniff, sip and ponder. Black cherry and berry aromas dance with hints of herbs, smoke and light oak on the nose. The palate is bright and juicy with a cherry and vanilla finish. The winery suggests a ribeye steak; I say pork tenderloin.

Three Rivers Winery
2005 Merlot
Champoux Vineyard
Horse Heaven Hills
$39.00

Champoux Vineyard is one of the oldest in Washington, dating back to the 1970s when it was named Mercer Ranch. This spectacular Merlot is big and powerful yet offers the finesse one finds only in the highest quality wines. On the nose: black cherry, earthy spice, cocoa and cedar. On the palate: cherry, berry, cassis and delicate floral and herbal nuances that bring to mind a fine Pomerol or St. Emilion from Bordeaux. Aging in only 50% new oak allowed these unique characteristics to show through.

Merry Cellars
2005 Merlot
Stillwater Creek Vineyard
$30.00

Patrick Merry sourced the Merlot fruit for this wine from the highly regarded Stillwater Creek Vineyard on the Royal Slope. Of all the wines listed in this article, I pronounce this to be the best candidate for aging. Aromas of cherry, blueberry and vanilla lead to ripe flavors of black cherry, berry and herbs. Ample acidity creates superb structure on the palate, and light oak treatment swaddles the delicate Merlot fruit. Pullman's most famous winery has another winner!

Hogue Genesis
2004 Merlot
Columbia Valley
$22.00

The Hogue Cellars has a superb track record for crafting delicious, approachable wines that represent great value. Genesis Merlot offers aromas of plum and cherry with toasty notes of vanilla and cedar. The palate is medium bodied yielding flavors of black cherry, berry, cocoa and baking spice. Good value. Aged in American oak, 35% new.

Bergevin Lane
2004 Merlot
Columbia Valley
$25.00

Some Merlots wear two hats: a sippin' hat and a food pairin' hat. This medium-bodied Merlot offers bright cherry and plum in the aroma and flavor with silky tannins and a fruity vanilla finish. More and more folks are choosing red wines as an aperitif and this fits the bill nicely. If you want to enjoy it with your dinner of steak or pork from the grill, it works there too!

Hightower Cellars
2004 Merlot
Columbia Valley
$28.00

It is an exciting harvest season at Hightower Cellars on Red Mountain. Tim and Kelly are harvesting the first grapes from their Estate Red Mountain vineyard, and they are constructing new building space to accommodate the added production. Congratulations! Meanwhile their 2004 Merlot is drinking splendidly! Look for bright cherry and raspberry aromas and flavors with underlying complexity and structure from 18% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Try it with your own harvest celebration from the grill.

Saviah Cellars
2005 The Jack ^tm, Red Wine
Columbia Valley
$18.00

This affordable, fun wine has become a favorite at several Seattle area restaurants. Primarily Merlot, it has bits of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere and Syrah to add complexity and interest. Toasty oak and jammy cherry-berry aromas lead to a medium bodied palate with juicy flavors of berry, spicy oak and vanilla.

Watermill Winery
2005 Chances R Red Table Wine
Columbia Valley
$20.00

Another proprietary blend, Chances R offers a more plummy flavor profile with Merlot fruit (75% of the wine) sourced from the Wahluke Slope's Milbrandt Vineyard. Lots of toasty oak frames the plum, cherry and sweet tobacco flavors. The smoky/toasty/plummy aspect of this wine cries out for marinated meat, cooked on the grill.

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