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WINES By Chuck Hill
About Chuck
CHUCK'S CURRENT EARLIER COLUMNS
Wines of the Week REVIEWS
BY VARIETAL
Chuck's Wine Reviews
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Wines of the Week Archive The
weather has cooled, the rain is falling, it is clearly time for red
wines and hearty food. For my third annual Merlot and sausage tasting,
we are pairing Aidells dinner sausages with tasty west coast Merlots of
all price ranges. Aidells crafts delicious, pre-
Merlot is the most prominent blending grape of Bordeaux and is the base
varietal for “right bank” wines from Pomerol and St. Emilion. Merlot is
known for soft, plummy, cherry flavors with not a lot of complexity.
Traditionally, it is blended with other Bordeaux varietals – most
commonly Cabernet Sauvignon – to give it additional character and
complexity. Today, it is often presented with ample oak aging creating
nuances of vanilla, coconut and caramel over the cherry and plum flavor.
Merlot wines are very food friendly and versatile, and they benefit
greatly from an hour’s breathing. The more expensive bottlings would do
well with aeration from decanting. Don’t be afraid to try Merlots with
Thanksgiving turkey or other holiday meals.
Chateau Ste. Michelle The
wines of Chateau Ste. Michelle continue to set a standard for quality
and value in Washington State. The famous Cold Creek Vineyard is the
source for many superb CSM wines including this flavorful Merlot.
Ranked first in our tasting it offers aromas of tangy dark fruits, dark
chocolate and vanilla. The sausage-friendly palate shows flavors of
blueberry, black cherry, tobacco and toasty oak.
Leonetti Cellar
Winemakers Chris and Gary Figgins – son and father – have become
America’s masters at crafting complex wines with unique flavors derived
from the finest oak barrels and perfect fruit. Aromas of toasty, spicy
oak mingle with ripe plum, vanilla and earthy meaty notes. The palate
offers flavors of spicy red fruits, berry and creamy vanilla and toast
on the finish.
Here is a highly-ranked Merlot that offers a good portion of sweet and
tangy fruit in addition to attractive qualities achieved through oak
aging. Chuck Reininger crafts wines under his eponymous brand and also
under the Helix label. Look for ripe red cherry, spicy herb and citrus
aromas leading to flavors of spicy cherry candy, cranberry, brown sugar
and vanilla.
OS Winery
Winemaker Bill Owen crafted this tasty blend from 70% Merlot and 30%
Cabernet Sauvignon grown at Klipsun Vineyard on Red Mountain. It is a
grand accompaniment to our sausage fest featuring aromas and flavors of
red and black fruits, dried cherry and toasty herbs with good acidity
and a rich, food-friendly finish.
L’Ecole No 41
Merlot was the first red wine made by the owners of L’Ecole No 41 way
back in 1983, and it was the favorite wine of the late Jean Ferguson,
co-founder and winemaker. The 2008 vintage (25 years later!) offers
aromas of toasty cedar, baking spice and cherry candy leading to a
palate of ripe cherry, sweet herbs and spice.
Sineann
Coast-trotting winemaker Peter Rosback revealed that quality Merlot
fruit from Champoux Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills revived his
interest in producing varietally-labeled Merlot. The most complex
Merlot in our tastings, it offers aromas of dusty citrus-lemon, toasty
cedar and blackberry. On the palate flavors of dark fruits, cocoa,
spicy Mexican chocolate, vanilla and toasty oak are superb. Peter makes
another outstanding Merlot from Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard in
California.
Columbia Crest
Hands down the best value in Merlot that we have tasted, winemaker Juan
Munoz Oca crafted this wine from Columbia Valley fruit with 30% whole
berry to retain fruitiness in the finished wine. Aromas of ripe
raspberry, spicy anise and earthy cedar lead to flavors of plums and
cherries with elegant nuances of vanilla, malted chocolate and toasty
oak.
Portteus Winery
Paul Portteus planted the first eight acres of his 74-acre vineyard in
1982 and has been a dedicated grape grower – and later, winemaker – ever
since. His 2010 Merlot Reserve was a hit at Spring 2011 barrel tasting
and was subsequently released to adoring fans. Look for aromas and
flavors of dark cherry, cassis, baking spice, cocoa and toasty vanilla.
Duck Pond Cellars The
grapes for this tasty Merlot came from the 540-acre Desert Wind
Vineyard, owned by the Fries family, owners of Duck Pond Cellars and
Desert Wind Winery in Prosser. On the nose: earthy berry and herb with
notes of vanilla. On the palate: red fruits, dried cherry, toasty
vanilla and cedar.
DeLille Cellars
DeLille Cellars’ Merlot-dominant blend is named D2 after the French
Route D2 which winds through the scenic Medoc villages of Bordeaux
fame. This vintage is a blend of 55% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9%
Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Highly rated in our tastings it
needs breathing time to reveal aromas and flavors of cherry and black
currants, tobacco, caramel, spice and toasty oak.
Januik Winery
Winemaker Mike Januik aged his Columbia Valley Merlot in predominantly
new French oak giving the wine rich and spicy barrel character to
complement the fruit from some of the Columbia Valley’s most respected
vineyards. It benefits from breathing time and will improve with
further aging for five years plus. You’ll find aromas and flavors of
raspberry, black cherry, caramel, vanilla and toasty oak.
Zimri Cellars
Jason Bull spent nearly 20 years in the California wine industry in Napa
and Sonoma before discovering his passion for Pinot Noir and the
possibilities of a career in Oregon. He is winemaker and vineyard
manager for David Hill Winery and produces his own Zimri wines from
there. His 2008 Merlot offers aromas and flavors of ripe berry, baking
spice, vanilla and toasty oak.
Northstar
This is a Merlot that demands food from the grill. Smoky, toasty oak
character needs a like-flavored foil on the plate to reach harmony on
the palate. It is a blend of 78% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4%
Petit Verdot aged on 60% new French oak. Look for ripe cherry, caramel,
smoky tar and cassis with a finish of vanilla and coconut.
Bridgman
William B. Bridgman was one of the pioneers of Washington viticulture,
planting vineyards in the Yakima Valley before 1920 that still exist
today. Bridgman Cellars was created in 1993 to honor his daring
spirit. Bridgman 2008 Merlot offers ripe plum, earthy herb and vanilla
aromas leading to ripe cherry flavors on the palate with notes of cocoa,
spicy oak and vanilla.
Cathedral Ridge Winery
This young Merlot can use a little breathing time if opened in the near
term, and it has the stuffing to age up to five years which will soften
the tannins and add complexity. Look for aromas and flavors of dusty
blackberry, plum and smoky cedar with notes of cherry candy and vanilla.
Foundry Vineyards
Foundry Vineyards is a combination of fine art and wine, sharing unique
creative processes to bring the best to both. Winery founders are both
deeply involved in the Walla Walla arts scene and recent hire Ali
Mayfield brings pure winemaking expertise and creativity to this
successful endeavor. This feminine Merlot offers aromas of floral
perfume, earthy berry and vanilla with flavors of juicy cherry and
strawberry jam. Nice with food, nice for sipping.
Pontin del Roza
Winemaker Scott Pontin’s family has been farming in the Yakima Valley
for almost 60 years with Scott marking 26 years at the helm of the
family’s estate winery. Bright and juicy on both the aroma and palate,
this Merlot shows ripe plum and cherry, light toasty oak and a finish of
raspberry and vanilla.
Maryhill Winery If
you are wine touring during the holidays, don’t miss Maryhill’s holiday
open house on November 25, 26 and 27. When you’re visiting don’t miss
their tasty Merlot featuring aromas and flavors of spicy cherry, ripe
plum, baking spice and toasty oak.
Wines from other areas
Smoking Loon
This bargain-priced line of wines comes from Don Sebastiani and Sons and
offers quality wines in ten varietals. Smoking Loon Merlot offers
aromas of strawberry and herb leading to flavors of bright cran-cherry,
plum and herbs with notes of baking spice and chocolate – a great
affordable red wine for holiday parties.
Robert Mondavi Winery
With all the various brands that carry the Robert Mondavi name, this is
the original winery – look for “Robert Mondavi Winery” – that offers the
finest selections in the tradition of this Napa pioneer. On the nose:
blueberry, field herbs, eucalyptus and spicy oak. On the palate: ripe
blackberry, caramel, cocoa and toasty oak.
Cakebread Cellars
Cakebread Cellars has been a Napa Valley icon since Jack Cakebread
released his first vintage in the mid-1970s. This Merlot offers aromas
of ripe black cherry, tea-leaf, earthy herbs and vanilla. On the palate
dark plum and cherry flavors mingle with notes of cocoa, toasty vanilla
and smoky cedar. This is an elegant and concentrated wine to accompany
rich sausages or fine holiday entrees.
Black Box For
everyday sipping it is hard to beat the convenience and quality of Black
Box wines. Those who are seeking a light and fruity Merlot will enjoy
the berry and cherry aromas with notes of toasty oak; the
cherry-and-plum palate has plenty of body to accompany sausages and
more!
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Oysters and Mussels and Wines Each year, as Seattle's quasi summer warmth wanes to cool nights and drizzle, the Today's article pays homage to the crisp and grassy Sauvignon Blanc and it's New Zealand cousin sporting aromas of gooseberry and green olive. There's surely room for both on the table, though tasters tend to favor one or the other. We slurped Kumamoto oysters from Taylor Shellfish - modest-sized morsels that
Andrew Lodmell crafted this wine from grapes grown at Spring Creek Vineyard. It
shows marvelous complexity featuring aromas and flavors of citrus and herbs, green
apple and delicious notes of toasty vanilla and citrusy coconut on the finish.
This top-rated Sauvignon Blanc from Oregon-grown fruit, features the grassy and Columbia Crest Columbia Crest Winery has been located at the eastern end of Washington's Horse Capitello Wines Ray Walsh left his native New Zealand for adventure and discovered a love of wine and winemaking in Germany's Moselle valley. Further training in New Zealand led to his employment at Oregon's King Estate where he worked his way up to winemaker in 1999. Today, with his son Desmond, he crafts both Oregon and New Zealand wines under his Capitello label. Look for aromas and flavors of sweet citrus, orchard flowers, complex herbs and tropical fruits - delicious. Columbia Crest The Two Vines designation from Columbia Crest denotes their best value wines,
Winestar/rockstar Jay Somers works hard and lives a charmed life. In partnership with Ernst Loosen winery of Germany, he is forging a new cooperative venture in Oregon. His apprenticeships at noted Oregon wineries prepared him for this, and his tasty oyster wines tempt the palate in anticipation of things to come. Aromas and flavors of crisp citrus, mineral, herbs and light tropical fruits complement the oyster perfectly. Novelty Hill Mike Januik crafts the wines for Novelty Hill including this crisp and oyster-friendly Wines of Substance This line of moderately priced varietals offer intense varietal character across a Chateau Ste. Michelle Winemaker Bob Bertheau barrel fermented 30% of this wine in neutral French oak Hard Row to Hoe Winery Judy Phelps crafts the wines at Hard Row to Hoe Winery including this crisp Capitello Wines See Capitello review above for Ray Walsh's history. Crafted in his native New Three Rivers Winemaker Holly Turner crafts this wine from some of Washington's most Sineann Another bi-hemispheric winemaker, Oregon's Peter Rosback, crafts a wide variety of Va Piano "Chi va piano, va sano e va lontano." He who goes slowly, goes safely and goes far. This old Italian saying sums up Va Piano Vineyards approach to winemaking, and to life. Many folks relax slurping oysters and sipping Sauvignon Blanc. Enjoy aromas of floral perfume, citrus and baking spice, then sip flavors of spicy herbs, grapefruit, pear and tropical fruits. Mercer Estates Winemaker David Forsyth showcases the purity of Yakima Valley fruit in this gold-medal-winning wine. Look for aromas of apricot, honeydew melon and floral Maryhill Winery Many people believe that Maryhill Winery is the most beautiful in the State of
Cadaretta A blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon, this wine is tailor made for our feast of half shell oysters and wine-steamed mussels. Aromas of grassy earth, stone fruits and mineral entice a sip and a slurp of oyster, revealing flavors of green apple, citrus and melon with a saline minerality that pairs well with the briny bivalve. Hogue Cellars Once a winery masters a varietal - combining vineyard sources, vinification, Agate Ridge Vineyard From southern Oregon's Rogue Valley comes this estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc, Arbor Crest Wine Cellars Winemaker Kristina Mielke van Loben Sels' Sauvignon Blanc is fermented and aged Wineries from Other Areas Starborough Somehow I manage to surround myself with tasters and relatives who are addicted Grgich Hills Cellars Winemaker Mike Grgich is crafty in his use of barrels to age his wines. Utilizing Mason Cellars Randy and Megan Mason led exciting careers in the wine and hospitality industries Joseph Phelps If you're looking for a rich and toasty Sauvignon Blanc in perfect balance to Bonterra Vineyards Aromas of grapefruit, citrus, kiwi and grassy herbs invite a sip to accompany your Barefoot Wines Barefoot Wines are available throughout the U.S. and represent the best value in Wairau River
The Wairau River Family Estate was established in 1978 on the banks of the Wairau River in the Marlboro district of New Zealand's north island. Ripe aromas of passion fruit, grapefruit, gooseberry and floral perfume lead to a lip-smacking palate with gooseberry and citrus flavors that work well with both oysters and mussels. Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Creek Vineyards has produced Fume Blanc since 1972, modeled after the classic Black Box So you find yourself addicted to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. The haunting
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One-year
Archive of previous
"Wines of the Week" reviews
Copyright
© 2011 Chuck Hill |
cooked sausages from
chicken and turkey flavored with savory vegetables and spiced with
quality seasonings. To date we have enjoyed (in order of preference)
the Italian Style with Mozzarella, Portobello Mushroom, Mango with
Jalapeno and Turkey/Chicken Meatballs. All are excellent and are
available at your local grocery store.
Reininger Winery 
J. Christopher
