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By Chuck Hill

Chuck Hill, wine reviewer and columnist


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Wines of the Week Archive
Published June 27, 2007

Great Pinots for Great Salmon
Part One
(See Part Two, See Part Three)

By Chuck Hill

Each year when Copper River salmon arrives from Alaska, I am not quite prepared for just how flavorful and wine-friendly this magnificent fish can be. The rich red flesh of Copper River sockeye responds well to grilling or baking in the oven with a minimum of fuss - just a little salt, pepper and olive oil.  Add a few tarragon leaves and some lemon slices and the result is sublime. The price of Copper River has dropped to very attractive levels, so grab some of the Pinot Noirs below for a red wine-with-fish treat.

Willamette Valley Vineyards
2005 Pinot Noir, Estate Vineyard
$40.00

Next year will mark the 25th anniversary of the planting of the WVV Estate Vineyard by Jim Bernau, Founder and President of Willamette Valley Vineyards.Willamette Valley Vineyards - 2005 Pinot Noir lable This estate Pinot Noir shows all the attributes that have made Oregon a rival for the finest Burgundies and superior to all other Pinot Noir pretender appellations. The wine is almost too complex to describe (those who have studied Oregon Pinot Noir will understand) showing ripe cherry, spicy clove and earth, tobacco and a dozen other descriptors. It is a hallmark for the vintage and deserves a place on your table as you bring out the sides of salmon.

Amity Vineyards
2005 Pinot Noir Schauten Vineyard
$40.00

Crafted in the inimitable style of winemaker Myron Redford, this bright and fruity wine exhibits the elegance and complexity of the best Oregon Pinot Noirs. Look for aromas of strawberry and spice with hints of smoky licorice in the background. The palate offers cherry and berry flavors with notes of Pinot Noir's earthy/meaty character. It's a terrific pairing with salmon.


Cathedral Ridge
2005 Pinot Noir, Bangsund Reserve
$42.00

Complexity is the calling card of this rich Pinot Noir. Winemaker Michael Sebastiani crafted this flavorful bottling with aromas of ripe black cherry and herbs. Flavors of cherry, plum and cocoa mingle with hints of toasty oak on the palate. The wine is very well structured for pairing with rich dishes including Copper River salmon!

Erath Vineyards
2005 Pinot Noir Prince Hill Vineyard
$40.00

This Pinot Noir makes a statement about ripe fruit and full flavor. Bursting with aromas of cherry, strawberry and vanilla, the elegant scents lead you to succulent fruit flavors with a balanced framework of toasty oak, acidity and moderate tannins. A long lip-smacking finish works well with salmon from the grill. The transition to ownership by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates is going well and veteran winemaker Gary Horner continues the legacy of excellence established by Dick Erath.

Iris Hill
2005 Pinot Noir Reserve
$25.00

From the winery's Chalice Vineyard near Lorane, Oregon, 18 miles south of Eugene comes this delicious, full-bodied Pinot Noir. The wine gives an initial impression of power with ripe cherry and plum aromas dancing with earthy/meaty notes and toasty oak. Finesse comes into play with the flavorful palate offering cherry, blueberry, chocolate and tobacco in perfect balance. This is a wine to contemplate over a leisurely dinner of delicious salmon.

Firesteed
2005 Pinot Noir, Oregon
$15.00

For those inviting a crowd of family or friends over for a salmon barbecue, choose this flavorful bottling and you won't break the budget! Firesteed's Oregon Pinot Noir offers bright cherry and berry flavors with hints of earth and vanilla, and a refreshing Pinot finish at less than half the price of many bottlings.

Anam Cara
2004 Nicholas Estate Pinot Noir
$29.00

Nick and Sheila Nicholas are the proprietors of Anam Cara Cellars (Celtic for "friend of my soul") located on Chehalem Mountain between Sherwood and Newberg. This wine is from the first full-production year of their estate vineyard and has proved that good things are in store for future vintages. On the nose you'll find ripe cherry, plum, spice and chocolate mingling with floral notes and spicy oak. The palate is rich and structured without being overwhelming. It is here that the earthy/meaty qualities of Oregon Pinot show their presence along with a unique mineral quality distinctive to the terroir of Nicholas Estate.

Van Duzer
2004 Estate Pinot Noir
$30.00

The name Van Duzer was chosen for this winery to reflect the gap in the Oregon Coast Range (the Van Duzer Corridor) that allows coastal winds to penetrate and cool the warm Mid-Willamette Valley. Jim Kacacek has been the winemaker here for over a dozen years and knows the estate vineyards well. This wine shows complexity from the variety of Pinot Noir clones involved in its making (Pommard, Dijon and Wadenswil). Aromas of ripe cherry and blackberry are the stars with floral notes, spicy oak and cocoa filling out the cast. The palate is berry and earth with subtle tannins and a lingering finish.

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